The Saloon: A Menu as Big as the Portions

Walking in to the Saloon, I was happily surprised to see an interior obviously upgraded from the tatty exterior: An Amish buggy that looks like it took a wrong turn on the way from Newtown Farmers Market and a badly needed paint job does little to attract a passersby.

I have driven past on numerous occasions in and out of town, not giving the place a second look until a friend asked to meet us there for dinner. The former Township House Restaurant changed hands three years ago, when the new owners upgraded the menu and worked on the interior decor.

When we arrived, we sat in the bar area and waited for our friends to arrive. A leftover string of Christmas lights added little to the atmosphere. I was surprised that the bar did not have tap beer; instead, I settled for a bottle of Sierra Nevada from the long list reeled off by the knowledgeable bartender. The same barman mixed a strong gin and tonic for the bride, and we waited for our friends.

I assumed the large bar area was the entire restaurant until a server came to get us, leading our party into a tasteful--yet dated--rear dining room. A wall of candles illuminated the room, but the night was almost cut short when I tripped on a step walking through the dimly-lit hallway on the way to our table.

Our server quickly brought us menus, which contained a tribute to Italian/American classics of the 1990s with eight appetizers, a couple of soups, five salads, steaks, seven fish presentations with either salmon or tilapia, almost a dozen pastas and nine veal and chicken dishes. The classics of that era are all there: saltimbocca, piccata, Francaise, vodka rigatoni pasta with alfredo, and even shrimp scampi. A separate list of specials added additional options to the job of deciding what to eat; we ordered a bottle of wine to aid the chore. The friend who brought us insisted the food was great, and I took confidence in his words.

The bride and I shared what was called an avocado ceviche, and my friend’s assurance was brought into doubt. Ceviche is a dish that calls for fish to be cooked in some sort of acid, usually citrus juice or vinegar. What was brought to our table was a tower of decent quality tuna, hacked into large chunks and clumsily pressed into a mould with some chili and little seasoning. Fried pita chips added some crunch, but a little finesse would have added a lot more. A large order of steamed mussels with pesto and a tasty minestrone soup with fresh vegetables and a great broth aided in forgiving the messy tuna tower: both great renditions, both enjoyed by all at the table.

Portion sizes were large; the pork chop I ordered exaggerated the statement. A 14-ounce monster with wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, and grilled asparagus filled out a plate and could have served the four of us. Perfectly cooked pork and a nicely seasoned demi glace renewed my faith in the friend’s approval of the kitchen’s talent.

The bride ordered another winner of a dish: salmon Mediterranean style, served with artichoke hearts, kalamata olives, tomato, basil, garlic, and olive oil. The salmon was nicely cooked and the other ingredients, seasoned perfectly to match the fish. A tablemate did not fare well with his salmon prepared with simply with lemon and grilled--it was overcooked and not a pleasant experience for its recipient.

Veal marsala was perfect, an enormous portion of veal with mushrooms and a rich marsala sauce that boosted my confidence in the chef’s understanding of simple technique. Each of us was talked into dessert. Cheesecake, tiramisu and crème brulee were all decent renderings of classics I have had elsewhere, but a simple dessert they called toffee and pecans won my approval--simple toasted candied pecans with vanilla ice cream and caramel. It was delicious!

I liked The Saloon; it is far from a perfect restaurant, but if you are looking for familiarity, reasonable prices, and good service, it is worth a visit. The menu is as large as the portion size, with enough food and choices for all appetites.

The Saloon is located at 203 South Sycamore Street, Newtown. 215 579 8313 or www.thesaloon.us